
I have tried the two print designs for cases that have been shared here, neither felt as a durable or as robust as I would like. I would buy the metal case if it were available, and I don't mind paying $20 for the printed case on Tindie but I cannot fathom paying another $20 to send it to the US (bringing the total cost to nearly as much as the unit itself), so I started designing my own case. Unfortunately, I haven't found an official source of the mechanical dimensions for the unit, if there is one PLEASE let me know. In the mean time I dug out my caliper and with the use of my 3D printer to make "check plates" I have put together a set of mechanical dimensions that work for the unit I bought from Tindie. I've attached them as a PDF (its one of the formats my CAD program, TurbCAD, will produce).
Some notes on this dimensions:
* All of the dimensions are in mm which makes them more compatible with most 3D printing packages
* The outline of the 'face' represents edge to edge of the PCB with no overhang, so if you're making a case you'll want to extend the edges on sides to get overlap
* I printed out my tests as 2 mm "thick" sides, so the recesses (one for the power switch, one for the USB port) are 1 mm "deep".
* I deliberately chose not to use the **actual** outline for micro-USB on the USB port
* Neither the "bottom" face, nor the "left side" face are included as neither have openings. they are simply a 90.5 x 50mm square and a 50 x 22mm square respectively.
I don't warrant these will work on your unit. Clearly manufacturing differences can have an effect as can part substitution, that said, they should be on the paper at a 1:1 scale so if you print out this sheet and measure the printout to see that the dimensions your printer prints are accurate, then you can use an exacto (small razor) knife to cut the openings out of the paper and "test fit" them on your unit to verify.
Hope someone finds this helpful,
--Chuck